One more before we go...

We had a delightful stay with John and Audrey. John was sad to see us go, as there is much more work to be done at The Old Rectory. Maybe next summer...

John asked if I would apologize to our Moms for him...he took us to three different pubs in three days and felt like he was leading us astray. No apology necessary!
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English weather

It is a dreary and wet day in Devon today. If, however, you happen to be at a cozy 15th century rectory, it is the ideal weather. Our schedule: Tea, reading, a soggy walk in the woods, tea, conversation, a nap, tea, debate about which pub to patronize, pints of bitter, fish and chips, and probably more tea.

The Homies are 1 win away from a Park National League Championship!
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Lumberjacks!

We have been enjoying the gentle pace of life at The Old Rectory. The big activity of the day was a trip to Tiverton and a stop at the pub for a pint of bitter! Feeling as though something responsible should be accomplished, and to feel masculine, John and Christian decided to drop a troublesome tree.

Jen supervised, made sure the dogs were safe from falling limbs and documented the event.
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On to Tiverton!

We made it on our 11:27 a.m. train from London to Tiverton thanks to Nick's superb driving skills (Wakey-Wakey!!!!). Thanks for a fantastic visit Nick and Susannah!
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London!

In London with Nick and Suzannah at the Union Arms pub. Stella all around!

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Barber Shop

Christian had a good shave yesterday--I barely recognize him. It cost 5 Lira. Which I think is a great price for the barber's blade skills and finesse with the shaving cream...
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Our friends!

The picture is not great, but we became friends with these 2 young men who work at the hotel. After we chatted a while they picked up their instruments and played for us. Wonderful! Their names are Murat and Hussein.
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Hakin--this is for you!

Today we had a delicious Turkish coffee with apricots off the tree and dried apricot seeds. Serefe!
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Cappadocia

Hey all! This is Jen and Christian--JOINT blogging from our beautiful cave hotel in Ayvali near Urgup, Turkey. The past 24 hours have been remarkable. Our 16 hour train trip became 19 hours, which caused a little excitement. Our kind taxi driver helped us get on the last bus to Urgup minutes before departure. Meanwhile, a rainstorm slowed our progress and added to the adventure! Arriving quite late in Urgup, having not eating real food all day, we stopped for dinner at a random cafe (one of many). The owner, Hadir, his father and a friend descended upon us to help us to our destination. While we ate tasty cheeseburgers and frıes they looked up our hotel on the internet and called for the free shuttle bus. Half an hour later we had our own private chauffeur through the stormy night to the Gamirasu Hotel (look it up--it's sweet!) We were so excited to arrive at our cozy room.



Today was spent with 6 others on a private tour. Our guide, Aylin, brought us to see some incrdible sites. The area is full of cave dwellings that have been used as homes, churches, and wineries for hundreds and in some cases thousands of years. We also went to a pottery where they let us try throwing a pot. But, the joke was on them! Christian made a lovely bowl. Jen also tried to throw a pot...um...yeah. She needs a few lessons.



Now back in our cozy cave, more rain approaches. We are amazed by the landscape of this place, and continually struck by the kindness of the people we meet in Turkey.



Hope all is well.

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Orient Expess!!

Our tour ended today :( It was a little sad to leave our fun friends and the support of the guide. Currently we are taking an overnight train to an area called Cappadocia. We have our own little private cabin. Not fancy, but quite comfortable. We departed from Haydarpasa Train Station which was built to be the starting point of the Orient Express in 1909 (or close to that date). Cappadocia will be fun and the 3 days we have planned will be jam-packed. Getting to England will be almost as familiar as home. Sorry the photo is so bad. It is dark in here and Jen's finger is in the way!!! Golly she is bad at photography.

Thank you for the postings everybody!
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Crazy Day

It was a cloudy day on the Bosphorus. Our buddies Marie and Roxanne only had one full day to see the sights in Istanbul, so we decided to join them in a frantic four-site day.(Similar to 5 Disney parks in one day--circa 2004, whoo hoo!) We saw Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque (see photo), the underground basilica cistern and the enormous Topkapi Palace. They were all beautiful but I think Hagia Sofia was everyone's long-awaited favorite! Built in the 5th century, there are 5 or 6 original mosiacs remaining from the time when it was a Christian church. The restoration on them is incredible considering the fact that they were covered up when the building became a mosque in the 15th century. The Byzantine stucture is so large that I cannot believe it is still standing! Tonight we had our last dinner as a group and said goodbye to Roxanne who is headed to Amsterdam. We will miss her humor and excellent navigation skills!
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Istanbul

Istanbul is hot, crowded, and fast moving, but lots of fun! Our hotel is on the European side of the Bosphorus, but tonight we went for dinner and drinks on the Asian side. The photo is of Christian in front of Yenicami Mosque. I'd like to give a shout out to Drew for his triathalon today (Way to go!) and to all the Winona garage-salers, (sell lots!)
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Yeaooowch!

Today was an excellent day. The morning and afternoon were spent touring the beaches and hills of Gallipoli. It is a unique place where one can look west to Europe and east to Asia. The famous WWI battle between the Turks and the British allies took place here. Original, untouched trenches still exist. Ataturk, the man who became to creator of modern Turkey made his name at Gallipoli.

This evening, we went to a nearby Hamam for a Turkish bath for a vigorous combination of sauna, scrub and massage. At times both delicate and painful, it was an incredible experience. The hamam we chose has been in operation since 1620 and I think the guy delivering the massage has been there from the start. His name is Ali and although skinny, he was powerful and he knew what he was doing. The entire experience lasted about an hour and by the end we both felt like rugs taken outside, beaten and cleaned. I would go often if there was one at home.
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Canakkule

I think that is how you spell the name of the place where we are. It is basıcally a stop-off place for folks vısıtıng Troy and Gallipoli. We wıll be tourıng Gallıpolı tomorrow. Our hotel is kınd of fancy thıs tıme but even so, my pre-dınner shower was ICE cold. Not much to say because we spent 8 hours on a bus today. We drove by endless fıelds of sunflowers and olıve trees. More tomorrow...

Turkey!

One and a half days into our time in Turkey and already we love it. The people are so friendly, the food is wonderful, and there are so many interesting things to see and experience.

Tomorrow we take a bus to a town called Canakkale.

C'mon people, I am thirsty for some Twins news....

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Library Photo

Oops, forgot this.
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Selcuk and Ephesus and Rugs

Hey kids! We have had a full day so far and it is only 3 o'clock! We woke up early for a Turkish breakfast of tomatos, cucumber, olives, cheese, watermelon, hard-boiled eggs, bread, coffee and tea. We then headed to nearby Ephesus for a four hour session with a private guide. He helped the ruined city come to life as we snapped hundreds of photos. My favorite part was the Library of Celsus (see photo) which is not that old (AD 114-117). The library had a double-layered walls to keep some of the humidity away from the scrolls and books. The public toilets and the theaters were also very interesting. We stopped for lunch at a place that makes giant crepe-like thingies. We had one with feta and spinach and also one with sesame tahini and honey--yum! Then we went to a carpet dealer and learned a great deal about Turkish rugs. They were gorgeous and very high quality. If they had given us wine instead of tea I most certainly would have come home with one of them. Now we are having a short siesta before we visit a few more sites :)
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Kitty

This little one-eyed kitty really wants to come to the US and be Wampus's little sister! She loves Christian and it is hard to leave her on Samos...
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G'bye Greece!

Tomorrow we head for Turkey and while we have enjoyed Greece, we are excited about going to a new country. While we are still in Greece, the island we're on is only 3 kilometers from Turkey. Already we can see and feel changes from the previous places we have been. Turkey and Greece have had a rocky history and I am eager to look for the similarities and differences.

I hope everyone is well.
Thanks for all the blog entries.

p.s. Ouzo is gross.
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Kouros!

Hi everyone.
Yeah, so I guess it is my turn to 'blog'. Thanks to Jen for all the reminders...just kidding.
Today was perhaps the most fun and interesting days we have had in Greece. We decided to rent a car with our Australian friends Bob and Gaye and spent the day exploring Naxos. One incredible discovery was a 6th century B.C. Pagan temple that was later converted into a church. We also found some ancient 'Kouros'. They were beautiful marble sculptures that were begun while still in the mountain but damaged while being moved down the hill. Looking at them we could almost hear the ancient craftsman exclaim 'oh sh*t' when they broke. Another stop was at the shop of a 4th generation potter. He gave us a little tour of his studio - the same space used by his Great Grandfather - and threw a pot for us as well. We just finished dinner and will be boarding an overnight ferry to the island of Samos.
Attatched is a picture of us wishing everyone a happy 4th of July.
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Portara on Naxos

Christian says that since he is documenting our trip in "journal" format, I have to blog for him tonight. This photo was taken at the Portara Gateway which was intended to be the entrance to a temple to Apollo. They started building it in 530BC but never completed it--oops! Today was sooooooo hot but we managed to visit: this site, a very nice archaeological museum, a Venetian Museum, the ice cream shop, the beach, and a cheap but good taverna for dinner. This place has an interesting combination of Greek, Byzantine, Venetian, Cycladic and some crusader artifacts and history. Tomorrow is the 4th and the Australian couple we are with are challenging us to provide an American celebration for all. The only "American" thing we have managed to spot is watermelon. So the party may be a bit boring...Happy 4th everyone!
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Naxos

Naxos is bigger and more laid back than the other islands we have visited. We had a lovely dinner with everyone (Christian had squid) and then sampled the Citron liquor which is a specialty of the island. Who knows what tomorrow will bring? Another sunny day on the Aegean I suppose. In this photo I am accompanied by Roxanne from Montreal, a future art teacher! Naxos is very famous for its marble. There are some unfinished Kouri that still lie in the quarries from approximately 500 BC. We may go see them on Saturday.

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Wednesday

It has been a week since we left and I can't tell if the time is going slow or fast? I guess there was a large earthquake on Crete this morning, but we felt nothing and actually have not even heard mention of it except from Ann B. (Thanks for looking out for us Ann!!!) We watched the sunset in Oia on Santorini this evening. Quite a beautiful sight. The island makes me want to run home and watch Mama Mia and Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. White houses piled on top of one another, blue domes, sparkling aqua water. We did hear on CNN that we finally have a second senator--yay! Goodnight everyone!
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Some Greek animals for the Chameleon Room

I don't know if you can see the donkey because it is dark under his little shelter. But I bet you can see the skinny cat taking her afternoon nap! I also saw a tiny lizard today but he was too fast for me!
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